In defense of moto drivers in winter coats...

Despite the fact that sub-70 temperatures are virtually unheard of in this part of the world, Senegal, like many of the countries in West Africa, enjoys its own version of "winter" called harmattan. If you've been following me for a while (which, first of all, wow, thank you!), you may remember it from a few posts I wrote in Benin as a season that lasts from November through at least February. During this time, it's not uncommon to spot motorcyclists donning winter-style coats to brave the early morning "chill", a slightly comical sight for anyone who's ever experienced their eye lashes turning into icicles.

For years, I could honestly say I had one single memory of feeling cold in West Africa. I was in Benin, swimming in the pool at Hotel du Port in Cotonou with my friend Elisabeth in December. As I climbed out of the water, a passing breeze raised goosebumps on my damp skin. The fact that I remember this five years later shows how profoundly unusual this experience really was!

However, in defense of moto drivers in winter coats, my experience of harmattan in Dakar has been different. When the sun is no longer overhead, the air cools down significantly, and I can be found at one of our favorite rooftop restaurants sitting quite comfortably in a sweater and a scarf! I do enjoy reverting ever-so-slightly back to my typical Minnesotan wardrobe :)

The view at night from one of our favorite restaurants is very pretty! (Despite my phone photography)

The hospital continues to operate while I sit in my office two decks up. January marked the beginning of the Ophthalmic surgery block. Patients who are blind from advanced cataracts in both eyes are led into a room on deck 3 where they are prepped for surgery. After a 20 minute procedure and a day with an eye patch, they get to see clearly again, and enjoy their regained independence! One of my favorite portraits in the hospital corridor is of an eye patient from Guinea named Babadi.

Although there is no physical difference, the transformation is evidenced on his face! The story I've heard is that his first words to his wife were, "You're even more beautiful that I remember!" Smart move, Babadi ;)

As a general rule in life, I think it's healthy to do one thing every day that scares me. Not only did it help me when I was getting used to life in Benin and the unexpected was a daily occurrence, but it is also a helpful encouragement to "do hard things" in my relationships and as I engage with people  who are different from me. This mentality often reminds me that sometimes success doesn’t come from turning out the perfect results—sometimes, victory just means trying something for the first time.

A bowl of thieboudienne (rice and fish)
I "helped" with when visiting a friend. I was so
excited that I forgot to get a "before" photo!

Directors of two of the companies in charge of processing our supply containers came to the ship last week for a courtesy visit to the hospital, and to share a meal. It turned out to be the most "shared" meal I think I've ever eaten! My coworker had arranged for one of our wonderful local Day Crew who works in the Galley to prepare delicious Senegalese meal--thiebou yapp, or rice and beef. It was then served in a traditional Senegalese way, by eating with our guests out of a shared bowl. 

When eating in this way, each person eats from the "section" of the bowl closest to them. In my experience, the rice is usually garnished with seasoned onions and other yummy boiled vegetables, and the host makes their guests feel welcome by rolling a piece of carrot or a choice chunk of meat into their section of the bowl. I had been the "guest" at one of these meals before, but this was my first experience as the host. My Senegalese bowl-mates were no doubt more experienced at it than me, but they still smiled and nodded encouragingly when I sheepishly asked them if I was doing it right! The Senegalese are nothing if not generous. ;)

Visiting a mosque with Ka (left, Day Crew), Andrea (center right, writer), and Mamifa (right, Day Crew).

Mosque of the Divinity is stunning, and I would always see it every time we drove somewhere up the west coast of Dakar. When I went with friends, a man who worked there was happy to tell us about how it was founded and built.

Ka, me, Aliou, Andrea, and Mamifa

Cow's grazing my Senegal's "Pink Lake". This photo doesn't do it justice--it was really pink that day!!

The Greatest Gift

Christmas greetings from Senegal!

Christmas afternoon on board with a few friends :)

When I give someone a gift, I hope that the person receiving it will be excited about it. I think we all do. For Christmas this year, my family sent me an adorable mug that says "YOU BETCHA" with a little outline of Minnesota. When I pulled it out of the wrapping paper, I was so delighted that I couldn't help but smile and exclaim, "Oh my gosh!"

My friend Andrea and I helping
out in the cafe last week.

Have you ever been so happy with a gift you received that you actually got up and danced for joy? I can't say that I ever have--It never even occurred to me! But today, I saw people doing just that.

Crew were invited to visit the wards and the HOPE Center to help deliver Christmas gifts for each patient and caregiver. I joined the HOPE Center group, and after visiting with the patients for a bit, it was time to distribute the gifts.

Before too long, the drums came out and a woman who could have been my grandmother began to play. Upon discovering what was inside her bag, I watched as one of the mamas flung the new bolt of colorful African wax fabric over her shoulder like an elegant sash, and went dancing up and down between the tables with more rhythm in one sandal-clad foot than I have in my entire body. Her friends jumped up and joined in her celebration while others, for lack of an instrument, added to the music by drumming on the table where they were still eating dinner. It brought so much joy to everyone watching. A scene I've only known to exist in High School Musical was unfolding in real life before our very eyes!

Let the heavens rejoice and the earth be glad.

Psalm 96:11

Today we celebrate the King of Heaven coming to earth as a tiny baby. I pray that this gift from God would fill us all with the same overflowing joy as this mama enjoying her gift!

"Jesus Mafa" is a series of paintings depicting the life of Jesus as it would have looked in an
African context. It's so cool to see these stories from a different culture's perspective!

The crew put a shoe outside their door on Christmas Eve for "elves" to fill ;)

My secret Santa gift came wrapped in electrical tape.

Merry Christmas to all, and to all a good night ("we'll be here all week...")

Flashback to Cameroon... and the party continues!

I actually started this post quite a while ago, but many of the same programs are being run in Senegal, so I hope it will give a good picture of the projects being run outside of the operating theater.

This isn't a photo from the same event, but gives you a feel for our beloved International Lounge.
(Photo credit: Lara Arkinstall)

It starts with a memory from working as one of the ship's Media Liaisons in Cameroon. I was helping coordinate the local media at an on-ship meeting in the International Lounge with the Cameroonian Minister of Health, and I got to listen to a presentation by members of the OR team on board as he affirmed the skill he sees in the Cameroonian surgeons he works with, performing surgeries side-by-side.

The healthcare professionals we encounter are talented, capable, and dedicated, and they are able to do everything our "western" surgeons do in far from optimal conditions.

If Mercy Ships want to do its work with excellence, that means they are constantly on a mission to work themselves out of a job. The goal is not just to help individuals who cannot access safe, affordable medical care, but also to leave a country's leadership better equipped to serve the health of its people than when we arrived...

To this end, Mercy Ships doctors and surgeons partner with local healthcare professionals as part of Mercy Ships' mentoring programs in the operating theaters and at the Ponseti Clinic. Many others have participated in "Train the Trainer" courses, which cover everything from "Essential Surgical Skills" and the WHO Safe Surgery Checklist, to farming techniques that will nourish communities using readily available resources.

These course participants were here before us, and they will stay around after the ship leaves. We're proud to work alongside them for the short time we are there, and you can join us in praying that these programs will have a positive impact on their effectiveness as healthcare professionals.

Below are two videos on Mercy Ships' Medical Capacity Building programs. The first is about a Beninese plastic surgeon who was mentored on the ship. The second follows the WHO Checklist team as they run a training program in a Cameroonian Hospital.

A Beninese volunteer named Eliphaz has been working with Mercy Ships for seven years developing, experimenting, and training others in organic, sustainable farming techniques designed to bolster the health of communities using ready available resources. One Friday, I had the chance to go with a small group from the ship to visit and explore the projects going on. The site was nestled in the backyard of the Archdiocese in a village about an hour outside of Douala called Edéa. Eliphaz greeted his students with the Latin phrase Coram Deo--"In the presence of God".

(Photo: Shawn Thompson)

Under one shady structure were neat piles of compost. They then opened up the barn-style doors of a nearby shed to reveal a forest of fast-growing, nutritious mushrooms, planted in bags that hung from the ceiling to protect them from insects.

The aquaponics setup at the Ag Site. The underground fish tank is to the right of the photographer. (Photo: Shawn Thompson)

If you haven't heard of aquaponics, you can read more about it here.) Aside from being totally mesmerizing to watch, it's a really knock-your-socks-off cool model for sustainable food production.

The Ag Site Students presenting AFM Managing Director, Warrie Blackburn, with a lovely bouquet made entirely of lettuce. Have you ever seen a more genuine gift! (Photo: Shawn Thompson)

It was, in my memory, a completely lovely day. And as Lawrence, one of our Ghanaian Seamen, would say, "The party continues!" Eliphaz is at it again, and this Thursday, a number of crew will travel from the ship to the city called M'bour, about 1.5 hours away, for the opening ceremony of the Food For Life Agricultural Program in Senegal. Participants have been interviewed and selected from 10 of Senegal's 14 regions to follow the 22-week training course. Two of the main criteria? A love of agricultural entrepreneurship, and a willingness to pass on their training to others after they graduate. Sweet. :)

Agriculture Program Manager Eliphaz Essah (Photo: Shawn Thompson)

Inside one of the greenhouses

Photo op with the Agriculture Project students (Photo: Shawn Thompson)