In defense of moto drivers in winter coats...

Despite the fact that sub-70 temperatures are virtually unheard of in this part of the world, Senegal, like many of the countries in West Africa, enjoys its own version of "winter" called harmattan. If you've been following me for a while (which, first of all, wow, thank you!), you may remember it from a few posts I wrote in Benin as a season that lasts from November through at least February. During this time, it's not uncommon to spot motorcyclists donning winter-style coats to brave the early morning "chill", a slightly comical sight for anyone who's ever experienced their eye lashes turning into icicles.

For years, I could honestly say I had one single memory of feeling cold in West Africa. I was in Benin, swimming in the pool at Hotel du Port in Cotonou with my friend Elisabeth in December. As I climbed out of the water, a passing breeze raised goosebumps on my damp skin. The fact that I remember this five years later shows how profoundly unusual this experience really was!

However, in defense of moto drivers in winter coats, my experience of harmattan in Dakar has been different. When the sun is no longer overhead, the air cools down significantly, and I can be found at one of our favorite rooftop restaurants sitting quite comfortably in a sweater and a scarf! I do enjoy reverting ever-so-slightly back to my typical Minnesotan wardrobe :)

The view at night from one of our favorite restaurants is very pretty! (Despite my phone photography)

The hospital continues to operate while I sit in my office two decks up. January marked the beginning of the Ophthalmic surgery block. Patients who are blind from advanced cataracts in both eyes are led into a room on deck 3 where they are prepped for surgery. After a 20 minute procedure and a day with an eye patch, they get to see clearly again, and enjoy their regained independence! One of my favorite portraits in the hospital corridor is of an eye patient from Guinea named Babadi.

Although there is no physical difference, the transformation is evidenced on his face! The story I've heard is that his first words to his wife were, "You're even more beautiful that I remember!" Smart move, Babadi ;)

As a general rule in life, I think it's healthy to do one thing every day that scares me. Not only did it help me when I was getting used to life in Benin and the unexpected was a daily occurrence, but it is also a helpful encouragement to "do hard things" in my relationships and as I engage with people  who are different from me. This mentality often reminds me that sometimes success doesn’t come from turning out the perfect results—sometimes, victory just means trying something for the first time.

A bowl of thieboudienne (rice and fish)
I "helped" with when visiting a friend. I was so
excited that I forgot to get a "before" photo!

Directors of two of the companies in charge of processing our supply containers came to the ship last week for a courtesy visit to the hospital, and to share a meal. It turned out to be the most "shared" meal I think I've ever eaten! My coworker had arranged for one of our wonderful local Day Crew who works in the Galley to prepare delicious Senegalese meal--thiebou yapp, or rice and beef. It was then served in a traditional Senegalese way, by eating with our guests out of a shared bowl. 

When eating in this way, each person eats from the "section" of the bowl closest to them. In my experience, the rice is usually garnished with seasoned onions and other yummy boiled vegetables, and the host makes their guests feel welcome by rolling a piece of carrot or a choice chunk of meat into their section of the bowl. I had been the "guest" at one of these meals before, but this was my first experience as the host. My Senegalese bowl-mates were no doubt more experienced at it than me, but they still smiled and nodded encouragingly when I sheepishly asked them if I was doing it right! The Senegalese are nothing if not generous. ;)

Visiting a mosque with Ka (left, Day Crew), Andrea (center right, writer), and Mamifa (right, Day Crew).

Mosque of the Divinity is stunning, and I would always see it every time we drove somewhere up the west coast of Dakar. When I went with friends, a man who worked there was happy to tell us about how it was founded and built.

Ka, me, Aliou, Andrea, and Mamifa

Cow's grazing my Senegal's "Pink Lake". This photo doesn't do it justice--it was really pink that day!!